In the 25 years that I’ve been a beauty writer and editor, I’ve slathered on a slew of anti-aging creams boasting wacky skincare ingredients—from snake and bee venom to snail slime. Sounds gross, but science proves these ingredients provide skin-replenishing nutrients to help turn back the clock. The latest oddball ingredient to make headlines? Salmon sperm. Both Jennifer Aniston and Kim Kardashian have tried facials using the ingredient and social media has been flooded with influencers who swear by it. As a 51-year-old sporting all the inevitable signs of aging and sun damage on my face–dull skin, dark spots, dry skin, fine lines and more—I decided to take one for the team and try it out myself. Keep scrolling to learn more about the salmon sperm facial and discover why dermatologists swear by it.
Why put salmon sperm on our skin?
My first question before even booking the appointment at The Shafer Clinic, a medical spa in New York City? “Are you actually going to put the sperm of a salmon on my face?” The answer, thankfully, was no. “The serum we apply is made with a salmon sperm derivative, rich in PDRN (polynucleotides),” explains Dendy Engelman, MD, FACM, a board-certified dermatologist at the clinic. PDRN is known for its skin-healing and regenerative properties, it helps to optimize the formation of new cells and repair damaged ones while also stimulating fibroblast production, which is essential for collagen and elastin production. “Additionally, as a bio-stimulator, this ingredient activates the skin’s natural repair mechanisms, making it a great option for those looking to support the skin’s renewal, reduce fine lines and achieve a more youthful appearance.”
What is a salmon sperm facial?
For many spas, a salmon sperm facial entails the application of a PDRN-infused serum along with a regular facial. The serum is rich in growth factors and nutrients that can help hydrate the skin, promote skin regeneration and improve texture. “However, if you are looking for more impactful, longer-lasting results, I recommend doing a salmon sperm facial in combination with microneedling,” advises Dr. Engelman. “While applying the serum alone may provide some benefits, it’s considered to be less effective without the microneedling component.”
What is microneedling?
Microneedling involves using tiny needles to create controlled micro-injuries in the skin, which stimulate the skin’s natural healing process, says Dr. Engelman. This process encourages collagen and elastin production, two proteins essential for skin firmness, elasticity and smoothness. Microneedling can also improve the appearance of scars, fine lines, texture, tone and hyperpigmentation. “Since microneedling forms tiny channels in the skin, it allows the ‘salmon sperm’ serum to penetrate more deeply, ensuring that you receive the maximum benefits.”
Is there a skin type that should avoid the salmon sperm facial?
According to Dr. Engelman, microneedling is best suited for aging, scarred or uneven skin. “However, those with active acne, inflammation or conditions like eczema, psoriasis or rosacea should avoid it, as microneedling may worsen or trigger flare-ups”. Salmon sperm (PDRN) treatments work well for dehydrated, aging skin, providing enhanced hydration, elasticity and cell repair. “Individuals with very sensitive or allergy-prone skin should exercise caution and consider a patch test, as reactions to this ingredient are possible,” she adds.
My experience getting a salmon sperm facial
Lucia Miranda, LE, CCMA, a licensed esthetician at the clinic prepped my face with a numbing cream, then after about 20 minutes treated my skin with an EXION machine using microneedling RF technology. Kind of a cross between a laser and microneedles, “it has advanced comfort technology and delivers precise and controlled energy, which helps keep the skin comfortable throughout the treatment,” explains Dr. Engelman. Each zap felt almost like being flicked with a rubber band, quick stings that barely bothered my extremely sensitive skin. The entire process took about 20-30 minutes and once Lucia had covered my entire face (she focused more heavily on problem areas like the 11s between my brows and the 2-3 dark spots on my cheeks), she then used a needle-free syringe to “inject” the serum onto my skin. It felt cool and calming and I was up and ready to leave within minutes.
The one downside: I walked out of the clinic looking and feeling like I had a really bad sunburn. My complexion was splotchy, red and warm but it was to be expected. “There is minimal redness and a very short downtime for this treatment, which is great for patients who aren’t looking to stay inside post-treatment,” says Dr. Engleman. And Lucia assured me it would be better by the morning if not sooner and she was right. By the next day, my skin was glowing and super soft—immediate results of the treatment. Lucia explained that within the next few weeks, I would notice those 11s tighten up a bit and the dark spots would fade.
One thing I wasn’t expecting was the tiny little brown dots all over my face—likely mini scabs from the microneedling. If I hadn’t been inspecting my skin in a magnifying mirror, I wouldn’t have even noticed them and by the end of the week they were all gone.
The results? It’s been two months since my facial and while I haven’t been transported back to my 20s, my skin is definitely a bit tauter, less dull and my dark spots are less apparent.
My salmon sperm facial before and after photos
The morning of/before salmon sperm facial
Mid treatment
Immediately after treatment
2 months after salmon sperm facial
Can you give yourself a salmon sperm facial at home?
Truth be told, these in-spa or clinic treatments aren’t cheap. They can run anywhere from $500 to $1800 and while results should last up to a year, depending on your specific skin issues—it’s still a pretty penny to spend. Dr. Engelman’s suggestion: “While there’s no direct alternative to this combination of treatments, I recommend looking for ingredients for at-home use that help promote overall skin health, hydration and regeneration. I would look for serums that contain growth factors, peptides and/or hyaluronic acid.”
Some options:
- Medicube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum: It contains powerhouse ingredients including rose PDRN (rosa damascena extract and sodium DNA) and five types of peptide complexes that work to boost collagen production and skin elasticity, repair the skin barrier, and promote skin health.
- KAHI Wrinkle Bounce Multi-Balm: It utilizes the collagen properties found in the salmon’s DNA properties (the sperm) to reduce signs of aging and leave skin looking hydrated and refreshed.
